Thanjavur – A short trip to the Chola Capital

Recently I had an opportunity of visiting Thanjavur, the occasion being my neighbour’s marriage. I had visited Thanjavur many times in the past, but this time I just had half a day of free time before my return journey, just visited the big temple and sat there till it got dark. 

Vimana of the temple

Brihadeeshwara temple at dusk

Thanjavur, is a name which comes first, when one speaks of arts, literature and culture of Tamilnadu. Everything in Thanjavur finds a special place in its class, whether it is the Thanjavur talai aati bommai (the special doll which shakes its head) or the Thanjavur paintings. The temples, the dance forms of Bharathanatyam, Carnatic music or a simple south Indian coffee everything finds a special mention with the name Thanjavur prefixed for some of the things. The town was the capital of the Chola Empire until it was replaced with Gangai konda Cholapuram. The town is famous for the Brihadeeshwara temple built by Raja Raja Chola. Thiruvaiyaru the place where Thyagaraja Aradhana, an annual Carnatic music festival held to commemorate the attainment of Samadhi of singer and saint Thyagaraja is located near Thanjavur.

The temple

The Gopuram on the main entrance

Inscriptions on the temple walls

Temple surroundings at dusk

Brihadeeshwara temple, Rajarajeshwara temple, Peruvudaiyar temple, Tanjai periya kovil (big temple) called by various names, has become synonymous with Thanjavur. The 1000 year old magnificent temple is built in pure Dravidian style. The temple stands as a testament to the expertise of the Cholas in the field of engineering and architecture. The temple showcases the prosperity and grandeur of the Chola Empire during Raja Raja Chola’s period. The temple’s architecture is different from most of the Dravidian temples. The Vimana or the tower above the sanctum sanctorum is taller than the Gopuram on the main entrance, which is not common. In 2010 celebrations were held by the state government for commemorating the completion of 1000 years of the temple. The temple was granted the World Heritage site status in 1987. Later the Brihadeshwarar temple at Gangaikondacholapuram, Airavateshwara temple at Darasuram, Kampahareshwarar temple at thirubhuvanam were added to heritage site and is now collectively called as the Great Living Chola Temples.

Sandy beaches, Coral reefs and Olive ridleys.

Lakshadweep – A paradise on earth continued…………………

The islands

The Laccadive group of islands consists of Kavaratti, Agatti, Andrott, Kalpeni, Bangaram and some uninhabited islands. Amindivi group of islands consists of Amini, Kadamat, Kiltan chetlat Bitra and uninhabited islets and banks. Minicoy group consists of Minincoy and a islet called Viringili. While the Laccadive and Amindivi group of islands are located on the north of the nine degree channel, Minicoy is on the south of the channel. The channel is 200 km wide and is named so after the nine degree latitude. Most of the merchant vessels sailing towards Europe and the Gulf from South East Asia pass through this channel. The name of the islands was changed to Lakshadweep in 1973 by a constitutional act. The islands add an extra 20,000 square kilometres of territorial waters and another 400,000 square kilometres of exclusive economic zone to India. The people of the islands except Minicoy are ethnically similar to Keralites and speak the language Jeseri with minor variations from island to island in the dialect. The natives of Minicoy are somewhat similar to the people of Maldives culturally. They speak a language similar to the Maldives known as Mahl or Dwivehi. 

Flora and Fauna

Coconut palm is the most common tree in the islands and different dwarf varieties are also found here. Indian Tulip tree (“Thespesia Populnea” “cheerani” is the local name , “Poovarasan” in Tamil) and Bread Fruit tree (“chakka” in Malayalam) is also commonly found. In addition to this, different varieties of sea grass are also found in many of the islands. These are said to prevent erosion and control sediment transport. The sea grass also provides food for the Green turtles. 

Turtle feeding on sea grass

There are no big animals or birds or even crows. The number of crows found is very less and limited to some of the islands. Sea birds are limited to small uninhabited island called Pitti, it is declared as bird sanctuary. But when it comes to marine fauna it is plenty, it is very difficult to describe the abundance of life. All the islands have very healthy reefs. Most common fishes found are Parrot fish, Surgeon fish, Butterfly fish, Snappers, Trevally, Groupers, Gobies, Damsels, Clowns and Lion fish. Some of the bigger fishes include Barracudas, Giant morays, Reef sharks, Hammer head sharks etc. Other life forms are the Anemones, Sea urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Crabs, Lobsters, Hermit crabs, Sea horses, Giant Clams, Sea Turtles etc.

Olive Ridley Nesting

Straight away the hatchlings march in the direction of water

An Olive Ridley Turtle

Green turtles, Hawksbill, Olive Ridleys and Leatherback turtles are found in these areas. While Hawksbill, Olive Ridleys and Green Turtles are common and even nest here, the Leatherbacks are only in the records and are very rarely sighted. The nesting of Olive Ridleys turtles are reported to be more in numbers than the other species.

Tourism

Nand Aparajitha a cargo vessel which ran aground at Kavaratti in 2010

The islands are pristine because of its distance from the mainland coast and problems in connectivity. In recent times, the Lakshadweep administration is trying to promote tourism in some of the islands. While domestic tourism is promoted in most of the islands, the entry of foreign tourists is limited only to Agatti, Kadmat and Bangaram. Bangaram an uninhabited island until recently was being promoted as the main tourist attraction. Use of liquor was also permitted only in Bangaram, in all other islands liquor is prohibited. October to April months are best for travelling to Lakshadweep. Monsoon months are not suitable for tourism as the south west monsoon brings heavy showers and the sea will be very rough. Lakshadweep may not be a high end tourist destination as of now, however it has all the things necessary for a silent getaway from our busy lives.

Time lapse video of Sunset in Agatti, Lakshadweep

Lakshadweep – A Paradise on earth.

 I always used to wonder when I was very young, whether there were really beaches like the ones shown in the movies. Turquoise blue waters, white sand, calm and clear waters where you can see all the life beneath. Of course, I cannot be blamed, I was brought up in Mysore and the only beach I saw was the beach near my aunt’s house in north of Chennai, where I used to visit during the summer holidays. And then my fate took me to Lakshadweep suddenly all the way from Mysore. I was posted at Kavaratti, capital of the Lakshadweep Islands for two years. 

White sand and Turquoise Blue waters 

Dolphins - Near the Cochin waterways

Lakshadweep is an archipelago of atolls, reefs and submerged sand banks. The name Lakshadweep means “one Lakh Islands” in Sanskrit, Hindi and other Indian languages. It was formerly called as Laccadive, Amindivi and Minicoy group of Islands. The total land area is very less (30 sq. km) and only 10 islands are inhabited. Jeseri is the local language, sounds like a mix of Malayalam and Tamil but does not have a script. Mahl (Dwivehi) is spoken in Minicoy island, it is similar to the language spoken in Maldives and has a script. The people here are very friendly and welcoming. Their main source of income is fishing and coconut. 

Little Friends

School of sardines being chased around by a Trevally

Most of these islands have a lagoon on the western side, surrounded by a reef. The lagoons are shallow at the edges and may be few meters (3-5) deep at the centre. Water will be still in these lagoons. The white sand below reflects the sunlight and gives the water the clear and bright turquoise blue colour. One can see the life below the water surface even from a glass bottomed boat in clear weather. 

On-board a passenger vessel - MV Kavaratti

The islands are a perfect getaway from the busy life of the city. One can leisurely stroll on the beaches, or take a dip in the clear lagoon. The more adventurous can go for snorkelling and scuba diving. The life under the sea is more colourful than on land with plenty of fishes, corals, anemones and other forms of life with bright and contrasting colours. Scuba diving will provide an experience of a lifetime. Or one can just spend the day sleeping under the canopy of coconut palms. But the only disappointment will be the food in the islands. Liquor is prohibited in all the islands. Mostly the seafood menu is limited to Tuna. Nowadays the newer resorts are trying to expand their menus, but it will be nothing near to the imagination one will get when thinking of a place surrounded by the sea. For the vegetarians also the choice will be very limited, as almost nothing is produced locally. All the vegetables have to come from the western coast of India by ship. 

Naval aircraft at Agatti

Due to the security restrictions the tourist population is only limited to the people who visit the island through the local government tourism agency “SPORTS”. The package usually is for a day trip (night is spent in the ship) or for a couple of days stay in one of the islands, the rest of the tour is spent in the passenger vessels. Nowadays a lot of private resorts have come up and are bringing tourists on their own packages. 

Reaching Lakshadweep

View from cochin port

Passenger vessels are operated from Cochin and Calicut by the Lakshadweep administration on a scheduled basis. Agatti, one of the islands have airport facility. Indian airlines operate regular flights to Agatti. Prior permission in the form of a entry permit has to be taken from Lakshadweep administration for visiting the islands. The simplest way to visit Lakshadweep is to select a package offered by the Lakshadweep tourism department (“SPORTS” – Society for Promotion of Recreational Tourism and Sports). Or one can make a detailed survey and opt for a package offered by some of the local resorts. 

To be continued……………

Kelambakkam backwaters - Birding on the ECR road

It is the extension of Muttukadu backwaters, and stretches along the Kelambakkam – Kovalam road. This place attracts lot of migratory and resident birds. A huge number of Painted Storks, Spot Billed Pelicans, Black Headed Ibis and Egrets can be spotted here. Perching birds can also be seen in the bushes and shrubs surrounding the water bodies. Some of the smaller birds spotted here includes Pied Kingfishers, Prinias and White Breasted Kingfishers. 

Birds at Kelambakkam backwaters

Spot Billed Pelicans

Many good vantage points are there along the Kelambakkam – Kovalam road for bird watching. If you don’t mind getting your feet dirty and manage some slippery muddy paths, you can also get to the flat lands and salt pans surrounding the backwaters. As the day advances raptors can also be spotted above these salt pans.

White Throated Kingfisher

Pied Kingfisher

Kelambakkam backwater is one of the places where you can get lots of opportunity to shoot pictures of Pied Kingfishers in flight. This place has a large number of Pied Kingfishers and here, they don’t mind people getting close to them. Pied kingfishers can be spotted on transmission lines, partially submerged rocks and hovering on the water surface. With some fast equipment and a bit of support from the light, good shots of Pied Kingfishers can be captured when they hover over the water in search of fish.

Ashy Prinia

Lone Fisherman

In recent times the backwaters and the salt pan ecosystems are changing drastically, due to the water stagnation and sewage water getting mixed with the water body. 

Nature was maintaining this water body’s health by flushing it with sea water entering through the tidal inlet during tidal variations. But due to a lot of human intervention on the coast and change in weather system the tidal inlet gets closed frequently by accumulation of sand and formation of sand bars, preventing the exchange of water between the sea and the backwaters. This has led to the stagnation and deterioration of the health of this water body. 

Muttukadu backwaters – A birding place on the East Coast Road

Muttukadu backwaters is one of the good places around Chennai for bird watching and weekend trips. Muttukadu is located on the ECR near Kovalam also called as Covelong. These are the backwaters of Bay of Bengal. The backwaters extend up to the ECR road. It also stretches parallel to the shore on either side of the ECR up to the Kelambakkam – Kovalam road. This place is full of birds like Spot Billed Pelicans, Storks and Egrets. Also a large population of gulls can be seen near the tidal inlet (where the backwater is connected to the sea).

This place has a history of serving as a port during the colonial period; the Dutch had built a fort here, later it was taken over by the Arcot Nawab, French and the British during their respective periods. Now a private 5 star resort called Fishermen’s Cove sits on this place. This resort is under the hotel chain Vivanta run by the Taj group.

The inlet connecting the backwaters to the Bay of Bengal is just adjacent to the resort. This place is ideal for bird photography and also early morning seascape pictures. The beach is relatively cleaner but stinks a bit due to the dumping of fish waste and fish drying by the local fishermen. 

     

Egrets enjoying their meal

Painted Stork

Common birds found here includes Painted stork, Spot Billed Pelicans, Egrets, Black Headed Gulls, Black Winged Stilt, Common Green Shank and House Crows. Early mornings are good for bird watching here as large flocks of Painted Storks and Egrets will be feeding in the shallow waters and can be easily photographed. As the sun raises these birds move towards the interiors or take shelter near the bushes.  However after the Storks and Egrets move out the place is occupied by flocks of Gulls and also smaller waders like the Black Winged Stilt and Common Green Shanks.

Black Winged Stilt

Common Greenshank and Black Winged Stilt

An Interesting observation

Gulls are believed to be intelligent, resourceful birds and exhibit a certain level of complex communication within their group. An example (see Pic below) of this can be seen in the Muttukadu backwaters. The local fishermen just leave the dried fish waste on the beach. The House crows on the beach will be feeding on the fish, as soon as the crows are airborne with the dried fish in their beaks, a group of adult and juvenile Black Headed Gulls which are sitting in the shallow waters will launch a co-ordinated attack on the Crow. The Gulls over power the Crow, take away the fish from it and land on deeper waters. This cycle was getting repeated again and again. Even though there is lot of fish waste on the beach the Gulls never used to come onto the beach. 

A group of  adult and juvenile Black Headed Gulls mobbing a House Crow

Black Headed Gulls in Winter Plumage

Have a nice birding time…………… Next post will be on the other side of Muttukadu backwaters, Off Kelambakkam –Kovalam road…………

Maduratakam Lake – A place for weekend bird watching and macro photography

This is fourth in my series of posts with a view of covering the offbeat birding places around Chennai. While Madurantakam Lake may not be an ideal birding place, it will be an interesting weekend trip and even provide some good photography opportunities.

Madurantakam Lake is situated on the GST road (NH 45) near Madurantakam town. As the lake is located very near to the famed Vedanthangal bird sanctuary, it is home to a large avian population. It is a man-made water body, believed to be built during the Chola reign by King Uthama Chola who was also called as Madurantakar. It is also the second largest lake in Tamilnadu and irrigates some 1000 odd villages in and around Madurantakam.

Domino Cockroach

Egret

This place is also famous for the Aeri Katha Ramar temple and has a legend attached to it, about an English Collector named Colonel Lionel Place becoming a staunch devotee of Lord Rama and building a shrine for Lord Rama’s consort Sita Devi.

Blue Pansy

Crimson Rose

Legends and stories apart, the place is home for a large population of Egrets, Cormorants, Herons and Anhingas (snake bird or darter). When, I planned my visit to Madurantakam, it was middle of September  2012 and most of the water bodies including Siruthavur Lake were completely dry. Even this lake was almost dry and birding was not on my priorities. It was a Sunday and I had decided just to go on a long drive. The destination was finalized as Madurantakam as my friend was from this place and it was decided that we will be driving to his parent’s place which is a small village near Madurantakam town on my bike. We started at around 4.30 am from Pallikaranai, made a pit stop in between on the highway and had tea in a small night eatery along with truck drivers and reached the lake at around 6.30 am.

Pea Blue

Wild flower

The lake is surrounded by an embankment with gates on the eastern side. There is also a road on the embankment which can accommodate light vehicular movement. Either side of the road is full of shrubs and wild flowering plants. As the lake was dry most of the waders were in the middle of the lake and also it was a cloudy day, so I just turned my attention from bird watching towards Macro Photography with a normal lens. I do not have an exclusive Macro setup so you can call it as close up photography.

Smaller Orange Tip

Restricted Demon (Skipper)

Found some interesting wild flowers, for which I do not know the names. A Restricted Demon butterfly was sitting patiently on a leaf. Found a Smaller Orange Tip butterfly (Please correct me if I am wrong with the names). Also found a few Jungle Babblers.

Jungle Babbler

Common Carp

And finally, if you are a non-vegetarian and can haggle with the local fishermen, you can get some freshly caught Carps straight from the water for a good price (On a Sunday at any point of the day some fishermen will be there in the lake trying to catch fish).

Meanwhile due to rains in the last few days Pallikaranai marsh is getting some inflow, encouraging the Flamingos which are there from some time to move to the edge. I have managed to get some better photographs than last time. Click on the link to view the post “Flamingos in Pallikaranai”.

Flamingos in Pallikaranai

Due to the frequent rains in the past few days in Chennai, Pallikaranai marshland has started getting some inflow of water. The slight increase increase in the water level might have encouraged the Flamingo population which is there in the marshland from some time to move till the edge of the marsh. Last weekend the birds were found to be comparatively closer to the Thoraipakkam road than before. I managed to get some better photos than my last attempt.

Cloudy morning

Taking a walk

Sometimes loneliness feels good

Flock or Flamboyance

Head Held high

Time to Rest

The presence of the flamingos has in a way helped the marshland. Due to the continuous attention it is drawing through the visit of birdwatchers and photography enthusiasts, the pathway inside the fencing surrounding the marshland is somewhat cleaner than it used to be.  Also due to the coverage it is getting from the local and national newspapers, even the local residents and morning walkers are stopping to take look at the birds, who otherwise would not have bothered to stop because of the stench. This has in turn made the forest department to put up a number of signboards on either side of the Pallavaram – Thuraipakkam road about the conservation of the marshland. The forest department outpost which used to be mostly empty is now occupied by two guards; a visitor’s register is also being maintained to record the number of visitors to the marshland.

So this is what they call a “Win – Win situation” (for both the birds and the marshland).