Sandy beaches, Coral reefs and Olive ridleys.

Lakshadweep – A paradise on earth continued…………………

The islands

The Laccadive group of islands consists of Kavaratti, Agatti, Andrott, Kalpeni, Bangaram and some uninhabited islands. Amindivi group of islands consists of Amini, Kadamat, Kiltan chetlat Bitra and uninhabited islets and banks. Minicoy group consists of Minincoy and a islet called Viringili. While the Laccadive and Amindivi group of islands are located on the north of the nine degree channel, Minicoy is on the south of the channel. The channel is 200 km wide and is named so after the nine degree latitude. Most of the merchant vessels sailing towards Europe and the Gulf from South East Asia pass through this channel. The name of the islands was changed to Lakshadweep in 1973 by a constitutional act. The islands add an extra 20,000 square kilometres of territorial waters and another 400,000 square kilometres of exclusive economic zone to India. The people of the islands except Minicoy are ethnically similar to Keralites and speak the language Jeseri with minor variations from island to island in the dialect. The natives of Minicoy are somewhat similar to the people of Maldives culturally. They speak a language similar to the Maldives known as Mahl or Dwivehi. 

Flora and Fauna

Coconut palm is the most common tree in the islands and different dwarf varieties are also found here. Indian Tulip tree (“Thespesia Populnea” “cheerani” is the local name , “Poovarasan” in Tamil) and Bread Fruit tree (“chakka” in Malayalam) is also commonly found. In addition to this, different varieties of sea grass are also found in many of the islands. These are said to prevent erosion and control sediment transport. The sea grass also provides food for the Green turtles. 

Turtle feeding on sea grass

There are no big animals or birds or even crows. The number of crows found is very less and limited to some of the islands. Sea birds are limited to small uninhabited island called Pitti, it is declared as bird sanctuary. But when it comes to marine fauna it is plenty, it is very difficult to describe the abundance of life. All the islands have very healthy reefs. Most common fishes found are Parrot fish, Surgeon fish, Butterfly fish, Snappers, Trevally, Groupers, Gobies, Damsels, Clowns and Lion fish. Some of the bigger fishes include Barracudas, Giant morays, Reef sharks, Hammer head sharks etc. Other life forms are the Anemones, Sea urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Crabs, Lobsters, Hermit crabs, Sea horses, Giant Clams, Sea Turtles etc.

Olive Ridley Nesting

Straight away the hatchlings march in the direction of water

An Olive Ridley Turtle

Green turtles, Hawksbill, Olive Ridleys and Leatherback turtles are found in these areas. While Hawksbill, Olive Ridleys and Green Turtles are common and even nest here, the Leatherbacks are only in the records and are very rarely sighted. The nesting of Olive Ridleys turtles are reported to be more in numbers than the other species.

Tourism

Nand Aparajitha a cargo vessel which ran aground at Kavaratti in 2010

The islands are pristine because of its distance from the mainland coast and problems in connectivity. In recent times, the Lakshadweep administration is trying to promote tourism in some of the islands. While domestic tourism is promoted in most of the islands, the entry of foreign tourists is limited only to Agatti, Kadmat and Bangaram. Bangaram an uninhabited island until recently was being promoted as the main tourist attraction. Use of liquor was also permitted only in Bangaram, in all other islands liquor is prohibited. October to April months are best for travelling to Lakshadweep. Monsoon months are not suitable for tourism as the south west monsoon brings heavy showers and the sea will be very rough. Lakshadweep may not be a high end tourist destination as of now, however it has all the things necessary for a silent getaway from our busy lives.

Time lapse video of Sunset in Agatti, Lakshadweep

Lakshadweep – A Paradise on earth.

 I always used to wonder when I was very young, whether there were really beaches like the ones shown in the movies. Turquoise blue waters, white sand, calm and clear waters where you can see all the life beneath. Of course, I cannot be blamed, I was brought up in Mysore and the only beach I saw was the beach near my aunt’s house in north of Chennai, where I used to visit during the summer holidays. And then my fate took me to Lakshadweep suddenly all the way from Mysore. I was posted at Kavaratti, capital of the Lakshadweep Islands for two years. 

White sand and Turquoise Blue waters 

Dolphins - Near the Cochin waterways

Lakshadweep is an archipelago of atolls, reefs and submerged sand banks. The name Lakshadweep means “one Lakh Islands” in Sanskrit, Hindi and other Indian languages. It was formerly called as Laccadive, Amindivi and Minicoy group of Islands. The total land area is very less (30 sq. km) and only 10 islands are inhabited. Jeseri is the local language, sounds like a mix of Malayalam and Tamil but does not have a script. Mahl (Dwivehi) is spoken in Minicoy island, it is similar to the language spoken in Maldives and has a script. The people here are very friendly and welcoming. Their main source of income is fishing and coconut. 

Little Friends

School of sardines being chased around by a Trevally

Most of these islands have a lagoon on the western side, surrounded by a reef. The lagoons are shallow at the edges and may be few meters (3-5) deep at the centre. Water will be still in these lagoons. The white sand below reflects the sunlight and gives the water the clear and bright turquoise blue colour. One can see the life below the water surface even from a glass bottomed boat in clear weather. 

On-board a passenger vessel - MV Kavaratti

The islands are a perfect getaway from the busy life of the city. One can leisurely stroll on the beaches, or take a dip in the clear lagoon. The more adventurous can go for snorkelling and scuba diving. The life under the sea is more colourful than on land with plenty of fishes, corals, anemones and other forms of life with bright and contrasting colours. Scuba diving will provide an experience of a lifetime. Or one can just spend the day sleeping under the canopy of coconut palms. But the only disappointment will be the food in the islands. Liquor is prohibited in all the islands. Mostly the seafood menu is limited to Tuna. Nowadays the newer resorts are trying to expand their menus, but it will be nothing near to the imagination one will get when thinking of a place surrounded by the sea. For the vegetarians also the choice will be very limited, as almost nothing is produced locally. All the vegetables have to come from the western coast of India by ship. 

Naval aircraft at Agatti

Due to the security restrictions the tourist population is only limited to the people who visit the island through the local government tourism agency “SPORTS”. The package usually is for a day trip (night is spent in the ship) or for a couple of days stay in one of the islands, the rest of the tour is spent in the passenger vessels. Nowadays a lot of private resorts have come up and are bringing tourists on their own packages. 

Reaching Lakshadweep

View from cochin port

Passenger vessels are operated from Cochin and Calicut by the Lakshadweep administration on a scheduled basis. Agatti, one of the islands have airport facility. Indian airlines operate regular flights to Agatti. Prior permission in the form of a entry permit has to be taken from Lakshadweep administration for visiting the islands. The simplest way to visit Lakshadweep is to select a package offered by the Lakshadweep tourism department (“SPORTS” – Society for Promotion of Recreational Tourism and Sports). Or one can make a detailed survey and opt for a package offered by some of the local resorts. 

To be continued……………

Kelambakkam backwaters - Birding on the ECR road

It is the extension of Muttukadu backwaters, and stretches along the Kelambakkam – Kovalam road. This place attracts lot of migratory and resident birds. A huge number of Painted Storks, Spot Billed Pelicans, Black Headed Ibis and Egrets can be spotted here. Perching birds can also be seen in the bushes and shrubs surrounding the water bodies. Some of the smaller birds spotted here includes Pied Kingfishers, Prinias and White Breasted Kingfishers. 

Birds at Kelambakkam backwaters

Spot Billed Pelicans

Many good vantage points are there along the Kelambakkam – Kovalam road for bird watching. If you don’t mind getting your feet dirty and manage some slippery muddy paths, you can also get to the flat lands and salt pans surrounding the backwaters. As the day advances raptors can also be spotted above these salt pans.

White Throated Kingfisher

Pied Kingfisher

Kelambakkam backwater is one of the places where you can get lots of opportunity to shoot pictures of Pied Kingfishers in flight. This place has a large number of Pied Kingfishers and here, they don’t mind people getting close to them. Pied kingfishers can be spotted on transmission lines, partially submerged rocks and hovering on the water surface. With some fast equipment and a bit of support from the light, good shots of Pied Kingfishers can be captured when they hover over the water in search of fish.

Ashy Prinia

Lone Fisherman

In recent times the backwaters and the salt pan ecosystems are changing drastically, due to the water stagnation and sewage water getting mixed with the water body. 

Nature was maintaining this water body’s health by flushing it with sea water entering through the tidal inlet during tidal variations. But due to a lot of human intervention on the coast and change in weather system the tidal inlet gets closed frequently by accumulation of sand and formation of sand bars, preventing the exchange of water between the sea and the backwaters. This has led to the stagnation and deterioration of the health of this water body.